Ethos

Lyme, Connecticut: A River Town That Split in Two

Lyme, Connecticut

Pictures from Lyme

See all 3 photos →
Chester-Hadlyme Ferry Hamburg Cove Nehantic State Forest

Lyme began as "East Saybrook," the Saybrook Colony's land east of the Connecticut River; it separated from Saybrook in 1665 and was formally recognized as the town of Lyme in 1667, named for Lyme Regis on England's southwest coast. Modern Lyme is what remains after two splits — East Lyme separated in 1823, and the southern shoreline broke off in 1855 as South Lyme, renamed Old Lyme in 1857. Shipbuilding, lumber, farms and ferries were the town's early industries; Hamburg Cove, at the mouth of the Eightmile River, remains the river's only navigable waterway here. Lyme adopted zoning regulations as early as 1943, which helped preserve its rural character. A ferry has crossed the Connecticut River to Lyme's Hadlyme landing since 1769. Roger Griswold, later governor of Connecticut, was born here. With about 2,350 residents across 34.5 square miles, Lyme remains genuinely rural.

  1. 4,400 acres with 12 miles of trails and two boat launches.

  2. A 607-acre Connecticut River island, boat access only.

  3. 302 acres with about 9 miles of trails past archaeological ruins.

  4. An 1887 gathering place hosting concerts and a fall tag sale.

  5. A small-town agricultural fair founded in 1897.

  6. Artisan sheep and cow's-milk cheeses since the Sankow family arrived in 1917.

A ferry landing and a fairground

The Nehantic people wintered in the hills and summered along the shore here before the tribe was declared officially extinct in 1880. The Hamburg Fair, Lyme's signature agricultural fair, was established in 1897 at fairgrounds that have stood empty only six times since — four years during World War II and two during the Coronavirus pandemic — resuming in 2022. Besides Griswold, U.S. Chief Justice Morrison Remick Waite and oceanographer Robert Ballard are also associated with the town. The Chester-Hadlyme Ferry, running since 1769 when Jonathan Warner of Chester started the service, still crosses to Lyme's Hadlyme landing on Route 148, offering a scenic approach from the Chester side.

Getting there

Lyme has no interstate and no train station of its own, so nearly everyone arrives by car: take I-95 to Exit 70 in Old Lyme and follow Route 156 north about 7-8 miles into Hamburg village, Lyme's town center, with Route 82 crossing the town east-west and the seasonal Chester-Hadlyme Ferry on Route 148 offering a scenic river approach. There is no rail station in Lyme or Old Lyme; the nearest is Old Saybrook, served by Amtrak and CTrail Shore Line East across the Connecticut River.

State forest, a preserve network and a farm

Nehantic State Forest's roughly 4,400 acres include 12 miles of trails and boat launches at Norwich Pond and Uncas Lake. Selden Neck State Park, a 607-acre island rising nearly 230 feet, is accessible only by boat, with primitive river campsites. Hartman Park, cooperatively owned by the Town of Lyme and the Lyme Land Conservation Trust, anchors a network of connecting preserves totaling 422 acres and about 12 miles of trail. The Lyme Public Hall, built in 1887, houses the town's Local History Archives and hosts concerts, lectures and a tag sale each fall. Beaver Brook Farm, home to the Sankow family since 1917, produces sheep and cow's-milk cheeses, lamb and wool goods on 175 acres — call ahead, since store hours are not posted online. Beyond the farm, no restaurant or cafe could be verified operating inside the town of Lyme itself.

Frequently asked questions

How do I get to Lyme?
By car — I-95 Exit 70 in Old Lyme, then Route 156 north about 7-8 miles through Hamburg village. There is no rail station in Lyme; the nearest is Old Saybrook, across the Connecticut River.
Is there a train to Lyme?
No. Neither Lyme nor Old Lyme has a rail station. The nearest is Old Saybrook, served by Amtrak and CTrail Shore Line East.
Is there a restaurant in Lyme?
No restaurant or cafe could be verified operating inside the town of Lyme. Beaver Brook Farm sells cheese, lamb and wool products directly from the farm, but posts no retail hours online — call ahead. The nearest restaurants are in Old Lyme and East Haddam.
Is there a hotel in Lyme?
No hotel, inn or bed and breakfast could be verified inside Lyme. The nearest is the Old Lyme Inn, south on Route 156 in Old Lyme.
How do I reach Selden Neck State Park?
By boat only — it is an island in the Connecticut River with four primitive campsites, open May 1 through September 30. Reservations run through Reserve America.

Some booking links on this page earn Ethos a commission at no extra cost to you.

Connected pages

Nearby

Shared history