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Deep River, Connecticut: Ivory, Combs and a Steam Train Landing

Deep River, Connecticut

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Deep River was settled in 1635 as part of the Saybrook Colony, first known as "Eight Mile Meadow" or "Potapaug Quarter." It remained part of the town of Saybrook until that town's remaining section renamed itself Deep River in 1947, after Chester, Westbrook and Essex had each split off earlier. The town's defining industry began in 1798, when Phineas Pratt invented mechanical comb-cutting technology; Ezra Williams soon built the country's largest comb shop here, and by 1900 Deep River and neighboring Ivoryton processed up to 90 percent of the ivory imported into the United States, employing more than 1,400 workers between them. That wealth — and the human cost behind it, since tusks were carried to the coast using enslaved labor — earned Deep River the nickname "Queen of the Valley." The Deep River Ancient Muster, a fife-and-drum gathering begun in 1953, set a Guinness world record in 1976 and is still held every July.

  1. Three museums in one, covering the ivory industry and town history.

  2. The steam train's transfer point for the Becky Thatcher riverboat.

  3. A rare freshwater tidal marsh on the Connecticut River.

  4. An annual fife-and-drum gathering dating to 1953.

  5. Deep River's own production brewery and taproom.

  6. Main Street American dinner spot, open Tuesday through Sunday.

  7. Early-opening breakfast counter known for house-baked muffins.

Ivory, combs and the world's largest muster

Phineas Pratt's 1798 mechanical comb-cutting invention drew Ezra Williams' comb shop to Deep River, where it became the largest of its kind in the country; George Read & Company, the Pratt Brothers and Julius Pratt & Company merged into Pratt, Read & Company in 1862–63. By 1900, Deep River and Ivoryton together employed more than 1,400 workers processing up to 90 percent of the ivory imported into the United States — a single 75-pound tusk could yield veneers for the keys of 45 pianos, and the last shipment reached Ivoryton in 1954. The former Pratt, Read & Company Factory Complex still stands on Main Street and has been on the National Register since 1984. The Deep River Ancient Muster began on September 5, 1953, when fifteen corps gathered to mark the Deep River Drum Corps' 80th anniversary; in 1976 it set the Guinness World Record for the largest Ancient Fife and Drum Muster, and it is still held every third Saturday in July at Devitt's Field.

Getting there

Deep River is a car-first destination on Route 9 in the lower Connecticut River valley: take Exit 7 and follow signs to Deep River from I-95 northbound (Route 9N) or I-91 southbound (Route 9S). Route 154 (Main Street) is the scenic river road through the village center, and Route 80 runs west toward Killingworth. There is no passenger rail station in Deep River; the nearest is Old Saybrook, roughly 10 miles south on Shore Line East and Amtrak. The Essex Steam Train, a heritage excursion railroad rather than scheduled transit, runs through Deep River and transfers passengers to the Becky Thatcher riverboat at Deep River Landing for a Connecticut River cruise past Gillette Castle, the Goodspeed Opera House and the Haddam Swing Bridge.

Where to eat

High Nine Brewing is Deep River's own production brewery and taproom, with an events calendar of live music and taproom yoga and dogs welcome on the patio. Red House Restaurant and Bar serves dinner Tuesday through Sunday on Main Street, and Hally Jo's Corner Cafe opens at 5:30 a.m. daily for house-baked muffins and breakfast. No hotel, inn or B&B could be verified as operating inside Deep River; the nearest option is in neighboring Essex, about four miles away.

Frequently asked questions

How do I get to Deep River?
By car — take Route 9 Exit 7 and follow signs to Deep River from I-95 north or I-91 south. There is no passenger rail station in town; the nearest is Old Saybrook, roughly 10 miles south on Shore Line East and Amtrak.
Can I ride a train through Deep River?
The Essex Steam Train, a heritage excursion railroad rather than scheduled transit, runs through Deep River and transfers passengers to the Becky Thatcher riverboat at Deep River Landing for a Connecticut River cruise.
What was Deep River's ivory industry?
From the late 1700s through the mid-20th century, Deep River and neighboring Ivoryton processed up to 90 percent of the ivory imported into the United States, mostly for piano keys and combs, employing more than 1,400 workers by 1900. The last shipment reached Ivoryton in 1954.
What is the Deep River Ancient Muster?
A fife-and-drum gathering held every third Saturday in July at Devitt's Field, tracing to a 1953 celebration of the Deep River Drum Corps' 80th anniversary. It set the Guinness World Record for the largest Ancient Fife and Drum Muster in 1976.
Is there a hotel in Deep River?
No hotel, inn or B&B could be verified as currently operating inside Deep River. The nearest option is in neighboring Essex, about four miles away.

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